内容摘要：本文阐明了中西方服饰文化的特征，对中西方服装在衣料文化、功能意识、着装观念、着装方式、变迁过程方面的不同点进行深入探讨，并从社会功能、审美功能、容仪功能、形态构成、实用功能等方面分析了中西方服饰文化的共同点。本文认为，当下中国的服饰发展应在努力学习西方先进科技和文化的同时，珍视本民族的独创文化，从而将之改良成为东西方人都可以接受的新东方艺术，使中国服饰登上世界舞台。
Abstract:This article elucidates the characteristics of Chinese and western clothing culture,discusses in depth the differences between Chinese and western clothing in accordance with aspects like culture of dress material,function ideology,dress concept,transitional process etc and analyzes the sameness of Chinese and western clothing culture according to the function of society,aesthetics,apperance and utility and shape formation.This article holds the view that currently if we want to develop Chinese clothing we should strive to learn western advanced technology and culture and meanwhile we should cherish our own unique culture,thus we could make Chinese clothing become new eastern art that can be accepted by both eastern and western people and be popular in the fashion world.
关键词：中国西方服饰文化比较
Keywords:the comparison of Chinese and western clothing culture.
引子Introduction
从逻辑上看，“中国”和“西方”是两个不同层面的概念，前者是一个具体的国度，而后者则是一个方位。一般应该是“中国”与“法国”或“意大利”的文化比较，或者是“东方”与“西方”文化的比较才合逻辑。那么，为什么要把这样两个不同层面的概念放在一起进行比较研究呢？因为这里的“西方”是与后面的“服饰文化”紧密相连的一个概念，即“西方服饰文化”，是指以地中海文明为基础，欧洲中世纪以来发展形成的基督教文化圈中的服饰文化。本课题就是把这个对当今世界服饰文化具有重要影响的服饰文化同以黄河文明为基础形成的中国文化圈中的服饰文化进行比较研究。这里排除了伊斯兰文化圈和印度文化圈。
Logically,”China”and “West”is two conception in different level,the former is a specific country while the latter is just a direction.Generally, “Chinese” culture is supposed to compare with “French” or “Italian” culture or there is a logic to compare “Eastern”culture with “Western”culture.So,why these two different level conception are put together to compare and study?Because in this article,”West” is a conception which is related closely to the next word”clothing culture”.That is, “Western clothing culture” which means the clothing culture in the Christian culture circle which have been developed and formed on the basis of Mediterranean civilization since the Middle Ages.This subject is to compare the clothing culture which has great effect on the current clothing culture of the world with the clothing culture which is in Chinese culture circle developed and formed on the basis of the Yellow River Civilization.Islam culture circle and Indian culture circle are excluded.
东西方服饰文化在相当长的历史时期内，在相对独立的社会环境中，各自形成了自己的服饰体系。时至今日，随着经济的不断发展，科技的不断进步，世界经济贸易的全球一体化带来了生活方式的同质化。服饰潮流也在这一大趋势下日益“趋同”。西方人对中国这条东方巨龙的崛起刮目相看，尤其是西方的服装设计师在推出的新作当中不断导入中国服饰文化元素。透过这些表象，不禁引起人们一连串的深思：中国服饰文化与西方服饰文化到底有哪些不同？这两种文化有无相似或相同的地方？未来中国人的服饰将以“国际化”的西方服饰文化为主流，还是以中国本土的服饰文化为主流？或是两者的融合？
During the relatively long history and in the relatively independent social environment,eastern and western clothing culture have formed their own clothing system.Now as the economy is constantly developing and the technology is continuously making progress,the globalization of the world economy and trade has brought homogenization to the life style of people from different countries.With this trend different clothing styles are becoming the same day by day.People from west look at the rise of China——the eastern dragon with new eyes,especially eastern clothing designers constantly add Chinese clothing culture elements to their new designs.Seeing through these appearances,people cannot help to ponder deeply over a series of questions,for example,what on earth the differences are between Chinese and Western clothing culture.? Are there something similar or same in this two kind of culture?The main trend of future Chinese clothing style is “international” western clothing culture,or the Chinese local clothing culture or the combination of the two?
要弄清这些问题，恐怕只有在对这两种文化进行深入研究的基础上，比较各自的性格特征和发展变迁过程，从中总结出某些规律，才能得到答案。
To figure these questions out,only we compare each characteristic,development and transition process of the two kind of culture from which we summarize some certain regular patterns, can we get the answer.
一、 中西方服饰文化的特征概述
Chapter One Summary of characteristics of Chinese and western clothing culture
要想比较中西方服饰文化的区别，就应先弄清中国文化与西方文化的特征。
If we want to compare the distinction between Chinese and Western clothing culture,firstly we must understand fully the characteristics of Chinese and Western culture.
1.中、西方文化的特征
从地理环境上看，中国文化起源于黄河文明，是在一个相对固定而且封闭的地域环境中发展形成的.自古以来，儒家思想、道家哲学、佛教、伊斯兰教以及基督教文化都曾在这块热土上相互碰撞、交流和融会贯通，共同形成了以含蓄、包容为特征的中国文化，加上漫长的封建社会政治体制的统治，构筑起高度发达的文化体系。
1.1 the characteristics of Chinese and Western culture
Geographically,Chinese culture originated from the Yellow River Civilization,and was progressed and formed in a relatively settled and closed geographically environment.From days of old,Confucianism,Taoism philosophy,Buddhism,Islam and Christian culture have ever collided,communicated and integrated with each other on this earth.,and built Chinese culture features implicit and compatible together.In addition,under the long domination of political system of feudal society,highly advanced cultural system has been built.
与此相对，西方文化是以围绕着地中海的北非的尼罗河文明、西亚的两河流域文明、爱琴文明以及南欧的古希腊、古罗马文明为基础，经过来自北方的日耳曼民族大迁徙而形成的。 西欧诸国经过在中世纪的发展和拜占庭文化的滋养，特别是基督教文化的发展，从而形成与远东的中国完全不同的基督教文化圈。在这个文化圈中生存着众多的种族，存在着性格不同的文化，这些文化之间相互碰撞、交流和融合，形成了一种跃动的、积极进取的性格特色。
By contrast,the formation of western culture was caused by the great migration of Germans from north and based on Nile Civilization of Mediterranean and North Africa,Mesopotamia Civilization, Aegean Civilization and civilization of ancient Greek and ancient Rome of southern Europe.With the development of the Middle Ages and the nourishment of Byzentium culture,especially the development of Christian culture,Christian culture circle which is totally different from far east Chinese has been formed. In this culture circle where many races lived,there was culture with distinct characteristics,which collided,communicated and integrated with each other and then turned out to be a vivid and dynamic characteristic.
中国文化与西方文化相比，前者是在一个相对固定的地域环境中发展繁荣起来的，具有相对单一而鲜明的个性特色，属个体发生性质；后者则跨越亚、非、欧三大洲，在一个广阔的地域环境中，由多种文明相互混合，交替支配和影响，伴随着民族的迁徙、文化的移动而形成的，具有混合性特色，属系统发生性质。
Comparing Chinese culture with western culture,the former boomed in a relatively settled geographical environment and has relatively single and distinct pesonality characteristics,so it belongs to the type that individiual courses quality;while in a large geographically environment ,as the migration of tribes and the movement of culture, the latter,across three continents which are Asia,Africa and Europe,was formed by the blend,alternation and influence of various civilization and characterized by a mixed nature,so it belongs to the type that system courses quality.
2. 中、西方服饰文化特性
在上述两种完全不同的文化体系中，作为其组成部分的服饰文化，必然也表现出明显的差异。
1.2 Characteristics of Chinese and Western clothing culture
It’s certained that Chinese and Western clothing culture,a part of the two totally different cultural systems mentioned above,are characterized by clear differences.
⑴ 不同的衣料文化
脱离饮血茹毛的原始社会后，人类在不同的地理环境中创造出不同的衣料文化。中国人很早就开始利用葛、亚麻、苎麻等植物纤维和羊毛等动物纤维来织布，而且早在6900年前，就已经开始养蚕织丝。丝绸是中国人对人类衣生活的一大贡献，离开高雅的丝绸就无从谈起。
1.2.1 Different culture of dress material
After the primitive society when eating raw birds and animals,human beings created different dress culture in different geographically environment.Chinese have made use of plant fibers such as hemp,flax and ramie and so on and animal fibers like wool etc for a long time ago,and as early as 6900 years ago,they had begun to raising silkworms to weave.Silk is one of the great contribution to humans’ clothes made by Chinese,so we can’t talk about Chinese clothing culture without mentioning elegant silk.
与中国发达的丝绸文化相比，古埃及则主要是亚麻文化，两河流域主要是羊毛文化，印度是棉文化的发源地。古希腊和古罗马在衣料方面没有什么创举，是对地中海沿岸的上古文明的继承，即亚麻文化与羊毛文化兼而有之。而对于丝绸，虽然早在公元前，古罗马就通过丝绸之路领略了来自远东的丝绸的风采，但在相当长的历史时期内，古罗马人始终无法弄明白这美丽织物的奥秘。一直到公元552年，拜占庭帝国派遣两位懂中国话的传教士到中国，才弄清丝绸的秘密，一个世纪以后，在拜占庭才织出丝绸来，而欧洲人自己能织出丝绸，要到13-14世纪意大利文艺复兴之后。
In contrast to Chinese flourishing silk culture,ancient Egypt was dominated by flax culture,Mesopotamia was led by wool culture and India is the cradle of cotton culture.Without any innovation in dress material,ancient Greek and ancient Rome inherited the culture which combines flax culture with wool culture from the antient times civilization on Mediterranean.As for silk,although as early as BC ancient Rome had appreciated the beauty of the silk from far east via Silk Road,people of ancient Rome remained ignorant about the secret of the beautiful silk for a relatively long history.Byzentine Empire couldn’t know the secret of silk until they sent two missionaries who could speak Chinese to China in A.D.552 and one century later,Byzentium just successfully wove the silk while European couldn’t make it all by themselves until the Italian Renaissance in 13th –14th century.
⑵ 不同的服装功能意识
对于服装的功能，中国人与西方人在认识和侧重点上存在着明显的差异：自古以来，中国人就非常重视服装的社会伦理功能.不仅仅把穿衣局限于保暖或装饰的功能，而更加关注的是其“治国安天下”的社会伦理功能。从夏、商到周朝，随着服饰礼仪制度的完善，这种观念几乎贯穿整个中国历史，历朝历代，统治者都非常重视用穿戴装束来统一人的思想，不厌其烦地反复修订服饰制度，以此来规范各阶层人的行为，来“治国安邦”。
1.2.2 Different function ideology of clothing
Chinese and people from west have clear differences in cogniton and priorities of clothing function: from of old times,Chinese placed great emphasis on the social ethic function of dress. They not only wore clothes just for warmth or ornament,but also paid more attention to the social ethic function of “governing the country and establishing peace throughout the world”.From Xia Dynasty,Shang Dynasty to Zhou Dynasty,as the improvement of dress and etiquette system,this concept almost runs through the whole Chinese history——monarch of every dynasty all accorded importance to unify people’s view by restricting what they wore and never tired of revising clothing system again and again to make all people from different classes conduct in accordance with their rules and “manage state affair to make their country peaceful”.
罗可可时期女装
西方在这方面就无法与中国相提并论，虽然古罗马人也曾十分重视衣服对于身份的表示，封建时代也曾不断推出各种服饰禁令，但大多是一些奢侈禁令，很少有像中国人这样充分地把服装的社会功能发挥到极致的，而更多注重的是服装的财富价值和审美功能。
Women dress at the perio of Rococo
As for this aspect, western cannot compare with China.People of ancient Rome had ever put great emphasis on status symbols of clothes wore by people from different classes and in feudal times,every kind of clothing bans had been constantly made ,however,most of the bans were for forbidding extravagance and few westerners could make full use of clothing social function like Chinese,in contrast,they paid more attention to the wealth value and aesthetics function.
⑶ 不同的着装观念
在着装观念上，中国人和西方人相比也表现出明显的区别。由于儒家思想的影响，以及对服装的社会伦理功能的重视，中国人穿衣始终保持着一种东方式的矜持，对肌肤严密地包藏和掩蔽，中国服饰文化在一定程度上可说是一种“包”的文化，既不能“显露”体形，更不能随便“裸露”肌肤。衣服与人体之间保持着一个宽大的空间，这促使衣服在造型上变化相对较为平稳，很少有大的起伏，而在表面装饰上，在纹样、色彩的象征意义上，在衣料质地和装饰手段的开发等方面得以发展；后者使中国的衣服始终保持着严谨的造型，除魏晋时期的部分男装（如“竹林七贤”）和盛唐时期的贵族女装外，一般很少有裸露肌肤的表现。
1.2.3 Different dressing views
Chinese and westerners show distinctions in dressing views.Because of the influence of Confucianism and setting value on social ethic function of clothes,it shows a kind of east-style reserve in Chinese clothes——the skin was wrapped and hid carefully which at some level can be said Chinese clothing culture is a kind of “wrapping”culture in which feature cannot be showed and naked skin cannot be seen at random.There was always wide space between clothes and body which was the reason why the changes of clothes style were relatively steady and there were seldom big changes,but Chinese clothing progressed in the aspects like surface ornament,the symbol of pattern design and color,material quality and the development of ornament methods;the latter made Chinese clothing style remain reserved,which generally speaking,naked skin was hardly seen in addition to some men dress at the period of Wei and Jin Dynasties. (eg.the dress of ”Zhu Lin Qi Xian”——the famous literati in that period,including Qi Kang,Ruan Ji,Shan Tao,Xiang Xiu,Liu Ling,Wong Rong and Ruan Han) and noblewomen dress at the period of the glorious Tang Dynasty(AD 618-907).
与此相对，西方的服装则不同，除了中世纪受基督教的影响，出现了否定人的存在，否定人体美的表现这种特殊时期外，无论是古代的“宽衣”文化，还是文艺复兴以来的“窄衣”文化，西方的衣服都非常写实地，甚至是夸张地表现人的体形，尤其是自中世纪末期的“哥特式”时代以来，更是十分“露骨”地“强化”男女两性在体形上的性别特征，不仅想方设法来“显露”两性这种外形特征，而且不断地扩大裸露的面积和部位（尤其是女装）。在“显露”方面，还创造出一系列“补强”的手段。这种方式促使西方的服装在造型上起伏很大，在衣服结构上出现许多人为的创造性。
On the contrary,with the exception of the special period when the denial of the existence of people and the representation of the beauty of the human body appeared because of the influence of Christrian,western dress all represented realistically or even exaggeratedly the figures of humans no matter when “wide clothes”of ancient times or “narrow clothes” of Renaissance prevailed,especially since Gothic times in the late Middle Ages,the sex characteristics of men and women in figures have been emphasized more without any concealment——westerners who designed the clothes not only endeavored to “reveal”these figure characteristics of men and women, but also expanded continuously the exposed areas and body parts of the clothes(particularly the women clothes).Speaking of “revealing”,a series of methods to improve clothes were created which made western clothes much more different from each other in the style and there were more creations by people in the structure of clothes.
⑷ 不同的着装方式
从着装方式上看，中西方也存在着明显的区别。
1.2.4 Different dressing style
There are also clear differences between China and Western in the dressing style.
文艺复兴时期女装
中国的衣服自古以来就以上衣下裳为特征，前开前合，多用带子固定衣服，穿脱方便；而西方的衣服则从披挂式到贯头式，再到前开式，形式多样。多用饰针或扣子固定衣服（尽管西方的扣子是从亚洲学来的），形成一套较为复杂的穿着技巧。尤其是贯头式的穿法，在中国服装史上很少看到，而在西方，这种着装方式却十分发达，从古埃及的“丘尼克”（Tunic），到古罗马的“丘尼卡”（Tunica）和拜占庭的“达尔玛提卡”（Dalmatica），再到中世纪的“布里奥”（Bliaut），以及后来的各种“罗布”（Robe），几乎都是贯头式的。现代女装中非常发达的一个品种——连衣裙，也以贯头式的为多，或者说最正统的连衣裙还是贯头式的。而中国虽然早在公元前的春秋时就出现上下连属的“深衣”，但那从一开始就是前开前合式的，后来的各种袍、衫，也都是前开式的。现在人们穿的前开的西式衬衣，过去也是贯头穿的，真正的前开式衬衣是19世纪中叶以后的事情。
The women dress at the period of Renaissance
From of old times,Chinese clothes,separated and closed in front of the clothes,fixed by bands and easy to put on and take off, are characterized by a top jacket and a skirt on the bottom;while the style of western clothes were various which developed from hanging-style to the Guantou-style(made with cloth whose length is as two times as the height of one person and was folded in the middle where a hole was made.People can wear the clothes via the hole and the clothes was fixed by a band in the waist)，then to the separated-in-front style, fixed by decorative pins and buttons(even if western buttons were learned from Asia) and formed a set of relatively complicated dressing skills.Especially,the dressing style called Guantou-style which was rarely seen in the Chinese clothing history was very popular in western.From Tunic of ancient Egypt to Tunica of ancient Rome and Dalmatica of Byzentium,then to the Bliaut of the Middle Ages and every kind of Robe that come after Bliaut were almost the Guantou-style.Most of the dresses,one of the popular kind of modern women clothes,are Guantou-style,or it is said the Guantou-style dress is most orthodox.As early as the Spring and Autumn Period(770 B.C-476B. C),”Shenyi”(deep garment,literally means wrapping the body deep within the clothes)”which was made up of the upper and lower garment with one-piece cloth appeared in China, but from the beginning,”Shenyi” belongs to the style which was separated and closed in front and every kind of robes and “shan”(sleeveless jacket with vent in the sides of a jacket) was all separated-in- front style. The western-style shirt which is separated in front people wear now used to be Guantou-style and after the middle of 19th century,the real separated-in-front shirt just appeared.
另外，披挂式衣服在西方也十分发达，而在中国，这种穿着方式出现较晚，大约是随着佛教一起从印度传来的，到现在也还局限于僧人的袈裟。古希腊的“希顿”（Chiton）和“希玛纯”（Himation）、古罗马的“托加”（Toga），这些用一块布披挂在身上的衣服，强调披挂时形成的优美的垂褶效果，这也形成了区别于中国传统服装形态和着装方式的一种独特类型。西方的“宽衣”与中国的“宽衣”，无论在形式上、内容上，还是在观念上、效果上都不可同日而语，完全是两种不同的文化。
Besides,hanging-style clothes was also very popular in western,however,this dressing way appeared relatively late in China when spreading to China together with Buddism from India and until now it’s still restricted in cowl wore by monks.The clothes hung on the body with one-piece cloth like Chiton and Himation of ancient Greek and Toga of ancient Rome etc emphasized on the graceful frills formed when being hung,which also formed a special type of clothing shape and dressing way distinct from Chinese traditional clothes.The culture of “wide clothes” of western and China are completely two different kind of culture and can’t be compared either in the style and the content or in the concept and the effect.
这里有一些资料：
